(For those of you, who weren’t able to access the volcano videos in the last post, scroll down to the bottom of that page and click on “Read in Browser”.)
This post is the only other one that I will be doing on my recent trip, as my intent is not to do a travelogue! In general, there was a lot of hiking involved in addition to identifying plants and birds that were new to me. We went from the ocean on all sides of the Big Island, to our highest elevation of 4091 feet at the top of the Kilauea volcano, and through several ecosystems. Miles and miles of old lava flows were seen everywhere we went.
Our local group leader, Kaika Nihipali-Wailani, was an award winning Hawaiian dancer and ceremonialist. He came from a long lineage of native Hawaiians. We visited 3 places in particular where he brought an offering for the spirits of those locations, and chanted in Hawaiian a prayer and asking permission for our group to enter.
The first was at the bottom of the Halema’uma’u trail where it ends on the floor of Kaluapele, in the Kilauea caldera. You can see that other offerings were left there in addition to the wreath of leaves that Kaika brought. Fortunately, we were not near where the volcano would be erupting the next day. (If you look carefully, you can see the steam coming up from the volcano above the top of the cairn and just below the horizon.)
The second location was the next day when we hiked down to the floor of the Kilauea Iki crater. It was from here that we observed the great plume of smoke that signaled the start of the eruption.There are many sacred sites throughout all of the Hawaiian Islands that were established and used by the original Polynesian inhabitants. The forces of nature were revered as their gods. Many of these have been lost to time, many carefully hidden and guarded, and others desecrated. Many others have been preserved as National Historical Parks, and we had the honor of visiting one of these.Once we crossed over to the Kona side of the island, we were able to visit one of the most sacred locations on the western coast of the Big Island. This was the Pu’uhonua o Honaunau (Place of Refuge) National Historical Park. This 180 acre park was once the home of the royal grounds and a place of refuge for Hawaiian lawbreakers. It was established about 450 years ago. Captain cook, the first European to visit the islands, landed just north of there in 1779.
I could feel the spiritual energy and elevated life force, or mana, as soon as I started walking around. We first walked down the coast a bit through what would have been a former residential area. There were also numerous burials there in lava caves that had been documented but were off limits to the general public. Waves were crashing onto the lava cliffs. I can tell that I am in a special place when everything starts to slow down, as if I am walking through pudding. I was feeling that there.
We turned back to go to the entryway to the royal grounds. Kaika did another prayer and left an offering before we went in. We were walking past what would have been ceremonial altars and platforms and royal residences.
After walking along the beach we encountered a magnificent megalithic wall that separated the royal grounds from the Place of Refuge. The wall is up to 12 feet tall, 18 feet wide and 950 feet long and was constructed over a 400 year period. It separated the Place of Refuge from the royal grounds. The masonry was done in a way so that it could withstand earthquakes.
The Place of Refuge was from an ancient Hawaiian tradition that would allow lawbreakers to avoid prosecution (death) if they could swim around the rough lava rocks to get there, being chased along the way. Their crime would then be absolved by the resident priest. Back then, there were many of these in existence in Hawaii, not only this one.
What interested me the most was the Hale o Keawe, which was a royal mausoleum that housed the bones of 23 Hawaiian rulers, including King Kamehameha’s great grandfather. It is said that the mana exuded by these bones also gave power to the Place of Refuge. Below is the reconstruction of the original temple on its original site. Offerings are still left there on occasion. All of the wooden figures are of Hawaiian gods and guardians of the site. The bones of the rulers have long since been removed for safe keeping.
I have to say that I could strongly feel the sacred energy of this particular place, even though many years have passed since the Hawaiian royals did ceremony here. I hung out there for a bit just soaking in the mana.
So this National Historical Park and the time spent with Pele and the erupting Kilauea volcano were the highlights of my trip. Of course, there were hikes in the jungle, a visit to a Cloud Forest Preserve, and many new birds and wildflowers to photograph along the way. Below is a very common orchid that was seen all over in the higher elevations.
And, good food and good company. All in all, a great trip.